今日の「天職人」は、三重県亀山市関町の「関の戸屋主」。（平成22年3月31日毎日新聞掲載）
ご隠居さんの道楽か 甘い茶菓子を餌に釣り 茶室にぼくを正座させ 講釈垂れて茶の点前 今日の茶菓子の「関の戸」は 何やおはじきみたいやな 一度に二つ頬張れば 無作法咎めお説教
三重県亀山市関町、寛永年間（一六二四-四四）創業の銘菓「関の戸」で名高い深川屋陸奥大掾（京都御所から賜った従二位御用菓子司の称号）、十三代目当主の服部吉右衛門泰彦さんを訪ねた。
街道の要衝、古代三関の一つ「鈴鹿関」。東海道五十三次四十七番目の宿として、歴史上の人物たちが京へ江戸へと上り下り、時代が駆け抜けていった「関宿」。
時代劇映画の撮影所かと見紛うほどに立派な江戸時代の街並みが、東西の追分間約1.8㌔にも及ぶ。
唯一心残りなのは、地面が舗装されてしまっている点だ。
宿の中程で一際異彩を放つ、お店の2階より突き出した唐破風の被る庵看板。
長い年月に盤面は風化しているが、京へ上る向きに「関の戸」、逆に江戸へと下る向きには「せきのと」と浮かせ彫りが施されている。
「昔からこの辺りの者は、家で関の戸こうたと聞くと『そろそろあそこの爺様が危ないらしいわ』とたちまち噂が流れたようですわ。寛政年間（1789－1801）の記録によると、一口大の関の戸1個が、かけそば1杯の16文と一緒やったそうやで、そりゃあ高価なもんやさ。だから明日をも知れぬ年寄りに、最後だけでもせめて一口食べさせてやりたいと願う、いじらしい気持ちの現われですに」。泰彦さんが、帳場を横切り奥座敷へと導いた。
泰彦さんは昭和11（1936）年、3人兄弟の末子として誕生。
東京の大学を卒業すると、トヨタ自動車に入社し宣伝課へ配属された。
昭和34年、ニッサンがブルーバード、昭和35年にはトヨタから国民車パブリカが発売され、マイカーブームへ。
「時代の最先端を行く仕事でしたから、そりゃあ面白かったですよ」。
ところが肝臓を患い、療養のため帰郷。
「兄2人は家業と別の世界へ行ってましたから、自分の人生をもう一度じっくりと考え直すいい機会でした」。
そして得た結論は、当時1台65万円の車の商いより、関の戸1個15円の小商いだった。
27歳で家業へ。
「所得倍増計画が持て囃され、当時は欧米化へ一辺倒。日本の伝統文化が、どんどん見捨てられてゆく時代。だったらこの田舎の片隅で、江戸の文化を守り抜いて見ようかと。400年近く続いた血には抗えませんから」。
翌年、東京から同級生の摩須枝さんを妻に迎え、二男を授かった。
4世紀に渡り愛でられ続ける銘菓作りは、当主自ら早朝3時に起き出し、小豆鍋の火入れに始まる。
そして餡を漉し、餅粉に砂糖と水飴で煮て求肥に。
求肥がまだ熱い内に包餡し、和三盆をまぶせば、直径約3㌢、厚さ5㍉ほどの「関の戸」が完成。
何とも上品で雅やかな甘さが絶品だ。
「原料の配合や作り方も、寛政時代の記録のままです」。
帳場の横の総螺鈿細工を施した、眩いばかりの重箱とそれを覆う荷担箱。
大君から庶民にまで愛され続けたこの店の歴史を、今も見守り続ける。
このブログのコメント欄には、皆様に開示しても良いコメントをドンドンご掲示いただき、またその他のメッセージにつきましては、minoruokadahitoristudio@gmail.comへメールをいただければ幸いです。
求肥に餡子に和三盆ときたら、上品 上等な和菓子。どんな味か目をつむって想像してます(*˘︶˘*)
なんともやさしい上品なお味で、一口で頬張るのが勿体ないほどでしたぁ！
甘い物と言えば！
昨日「大あんまき」を買って食べましたが・・・
うん⤵
やはり「御座候」にはかなわないなぁ～！
程良い甘さ薄い皮、パンパンに入った小豆、たまらん⤴
なんてったって！値段が良心的、税込み95円だもん！
だけどねぇ！甘い物は・・・
小太りっちには・・残念だけど我慢！我慢！
そう言えば昨日、家の嫁様に、髪の毛を後ろで結んでいる姿を見て
「落武者ご老中」やねぇ～～！
だと！
一番の身内なのに・・・
ついに嫁御にまで「落ち武者」と言われちまいましたかぁ！
そいつぁお気の毒なこって！
まるでタイムスリップしたような街並み。舗装された地面だけが ちょっぴり残念だけど こういう街並み 大好きです。ゆっくり歩いて 風や空気や街の雰囲気を ぜ〜んぶ身体全体で感じたいなぁ。
きっと 上品な甘さで程よい柔らかさの ” 関の戸 ” も忘れずに( ◠‿◠ )
江戸時代の人馬の息遣いが、そこかしこから漏れ聞こえそうな、そんな街並みですよ！
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