今日の「天職人」は、岐阜県高山市の「飛騨ぶり寿し職人」。（平成21年9月30日毎日新聞掲載）
飛騨の土産を紐解いて 瞼を閉じる老いた父 母と二人で旅をした 古い記憶の巡り旅 小皿に分けたぶり寿しと 猪口の熱燗陰膳に 母のアルバム繰りながら 独り語りの手酌酒
岐阜県高山市の飛騨ぶり寿し総本舗、梗絲（きょうし）食品。二代目の今川雅晴さんを訪ねた。
「初めて子供に食べさせた時『美味しいっ』って。笑ってくれたあの表情が、忘れられんし、裏切れんのやさ。だからどうしても、天然のぶり使って無添加やないと。養殖もんのぶりはな、押し鮨にした後に脂が出るもんやで」。雅晴さんは、傍らに控える長男の貴允（たかみつ）さんを見つめながら笑った。
雅晴さんは昭和29（1954）年、4人兄弟の末子として誕生。
大学を中退すると19歳で一人東京へと向った。
「やっぱりなあ、一度は東京って憧れて。父の知人の紹介で、ファッションモデル事務所の、マネージャーをしとったんさ」。
しかし、昭和48年の第一次オイルショックを引き金に、翌年には消費者物価指数が、23%も上昇するという、狂乱物価の大不況時代へ。
「どこもかしこも不景気で、昭和50年には高山へと引き揚げて来たんやさ」。
兄が婿入りした先のスーパーに入り、旅館や料亭向けの鮮魚卸を担当。
その日も普段通りに注文の鮮魚を揃え、得意先の旅館へと向った。
まさか運命の時が、迫っているとは露知らず。
片や富山出身の妻陽子さんは、叔母が営む旅館にたまたま遊びに来ていた。
そこを雅晴さんが見初め、昭和53年に見事心を射抜き結ばれ、やがて一男二女を授かった。
昭和55年には店長に。
充実した日々が続いた。
昭和62年、父は営み続けた食料品と寿しの卸を、突然辞めると言い出した。
「そんなら寿しの卸を受け継ぐわ」と独立。
「家紋が丸に桔梗やで、そこから梗の字を。松倉城の人柱になった、小糸坂の小糸さんから一字。妻とたった二人で始めるんやで、１本より２本で紙縒（こよ）った方が強いで、糸の字を絲（し）に代えて梗絲やさ」。
毎朝早くから、夫婦で寿し作りに明け暮れた。
だが軌道に乗ると、新たな商品構想が頭をかすめる。
「汐ぶりとカブを朴葉で包み、何か新しいもんが出来んもんやろかと。子供背負って、お稲荷さん握りながら考えとったんやさ。そしたら、ご飯類のお土産が少ないことに気付いて。さっそく試作して子供に食べさせたら、これがまたえらい受けて」。
それがぶり寿し誕生の瞬間だった。
その後、商品化に向け改良が加えられ、平成9年に店頭販売を開始。
ぶり寿しはまず、ぶりの塩抜きに始まる。
半日水に晒し臭みを抜き、2㍉ほどの厚さに切り、酢通しで一晩。
「ぶりの色飛びを防ぐためにな」。
翌日、丸のまま甘酢に漬け込まれた無着色のカブを、1㍉ほどの厚さに横切りし、押し型に敷き詰め、その上に汐ぶり、生姜の千切り、舎利の順で押す寿しに。
塩漬けした朴葉を広げ、揉みしだき香りを立たせ、ぶり寿しを包（くる）めば完成。
飛騨の味覚が競い咲く。
ほんのり甘く、酸っぱいぶり寿し。
雪深い飛騨人の、温かくやさしい味がする。
このブログのコメント欄には、皆様に開示しても良いコメントをドンドンご掲示いただき、またその他のメッセージにつきましては、minoruokadahitoristudio@gmail.comへメールをいただければ幸いです。
ぶり寿しは、食べた事無いかも。カブが良い仕事をしてるんでしょうねぇ⤴️
食べてみたくなりました。
でしょ！
こんど高山にお出かけの際にはぜひとも！
きれいなお寿司〜( ◠‿◠ )
こんなお寿司見た事がないですよ。
天然で尚且つ新鮮じゃないと頂けないお寿司なんですよね？！
あ〜食べたいなぁ。
お寿司も場所も空間も時間も ぜ〜んぶまとめて味わいたい心境です。
高山は、なにも飛騨牛ばかりじゃありませんよねぇ。
漬物ステーキに、「にたくもじ」や漬物ステーキと！
いつか高山へ出かけたら、ぜひぶり寿司もご賞味あれ！
富山に行くとます寿司が有名で皆さんこぞって買っていきますが私は鰤ずしを買っていきます。飛騨にもぶり寿司があるんですね。高山に行ったら見て見ます。
ぜひご賞味あれ！
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